The Hobart

Trekking the Three Capes Track Three Ways

by Sarah Aitken
Trekking the Three Capes Track Three Ways

With various interstate trips vanishing before her eyes thanks to covid-induced border closures, Sarah Aitken booked herself in to hike the world-class Three Capes Track within the Tasman National Park on the Tasman Peninsula. Her legs are still recovering.

All the cliches come to mind when I try to describe my expe­rience on the Three Capes Track – the now famous walk along some of Australia’s highest dolorite cliffs. But they are all true. For example, it really was breathtaking, in more ways than one. The views were very excellent and looking over the many dramatic cliff edges in the wind repeatedly took my breath away…as did the hundreds of (beautifully constructed) steps on the final day.

The track winds through 48km of constantly changing scenery – from beaches to clifftops, from windswept heath to fungi-filled rainforest, ending at stunning Fortescue Bay for a well-deserved and rather chilly swim.

Many of us spotted seals, snakes, rare orchids and more along the way. To be so far from everyday life yet so close to Hobart was a total treat and I highly recommend booking in to do the walk now while numbers are capped. Depending on your budget, ability and penchant for camping (or not!), there are three ways you can walk the Three Capes Track. Kids can walk too – any bookings for kids under 18 must be with an adult, and if you want to take a bubby under 3 you need to phone to book. There is a max of two bubbies a day.

Munro Cabin. Pic: Jesse Desjardins
  1. Parks and Wildlife Service

The first, and the one we chose, was through Parks. For $495 you get comfy beds in well-designed huts, excellent kitchens, beautiful settings, a host ranger who’ll try their best to answer your obscure flora and fauna questions, and of course access to the seriously well-maintained tracks which you’ll share with a limited number of other walkers. You’re given a well-produced story book to enhance the experience and there’s even a shower at the middle hut. You also take a 1.5 hour Pennicott boat tour from Port Arthur to the start of the walk and a bus ride back from Fortescue Bay to Port Arthur.

  1. Do It Yourself

If you want to begin the walk at Denman’s Cove, stay in huts, and do the entire walk then you do need to book in with one of the above options. But you can do most of the walk and camp at separate camp grounds for just the price for parks entry. Beginning at Fortescue Bay, you can walk to Cape Pillar and back or add a loop to include Cape Hauy, spending your nights camping at the Wughalee campsite within the National Park. These options are either 29km return or a 34km circuit. You’ll need a valid Parks Pass and you’ll need to bring everything with you.

Smell the fragrant Kunzea.
  1. Tas Walking Co

This boutique business have their own huts, completely separate from the Parks site, and they’ll pick you up from and return you to the Hobart waterfront. Costs start at $3,095. You take a private boat trip to the starting point. You’ll be fully guided on the walk, with a bit more flexibility in how much or how little walking you’re feeling up to. Then you’ll have access to hot showers or even a bath at the fully private deluxe huts before being served a three course meal each night, with wine.

For more info head to: www.threecapestrack.com.au and www.taswalkingco.com.au/three-capes-lodge-walk/

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January 2025

Stay up to date with everything happening at the Hobart Magazine.

Even though Tasmania is known for its mild summers, it doesn’t take much to get sunburnt. Tasmania experiences extreme ultraviolet (UV) levels, but contrary to popular belief this isn’t due to the hole in the ozone layer, which is actually south of the continent.While higher UV levels often occur at the same time as higher temperatures, the two are not linked. Instead, UV levels are determined by the angle of the sun in the sky: the higher the sun, the higher the UV. In December and January, the position of the sun over Tasmania gives the state a UV index of 11 or more on most days, which is classified as “extreme” on the UV index. Tasmania’s lack of humidity and generally clear skies contribute to the stinging feeling of the sun. UV can reflect off buildings and water, making it possible to get a higher dose of UV from these reflected rays, even in the shade.

Setting up shop during a pandemic was a risky move, but if the crowd at Dāna Eating House (Dāna) on a Friday night is anything to go by, it’s one that’s paid off. With tables of diners chatting and laughing over drinks, the music and conversation buzzes off the monstera-leaf-green walls. Low-hanging rattan lights and worn wooden floorboards give the newly opened South-East Asian fusion venue in Hobart’s CBD a relaxed vibe.

A simple cave provided the perfect hideout for one of Tasmania’s most brutal bushrangers – and you can easily walk to it from Fern Tree. Sarah Aitken went in search of the story of Rocky Whelan.

Our geography seeps into our being. It can take grit to withstand chilling winters and stinging rain, isolated (even more so now) from some things that people interstate and overseas may take for granted. But people from Hobart have a certain way about them that can be both grounded and in flight at the same time.

An entrepreneur, a law grad, a mum, an advocate for women facing human traf­ficking, Hannah Vasicek doesn’t do things in halves.

Thank you to Luke Brokensha for mobilising his friends and local residents recently to host two rubbish clean ups along the Hobart Rivulet after heavy rains.
The warm weather returns...hello summer.
Need a laugh? Check out @theinspiredunemployed feed on Instagram.
Moto Vecchia Cafe in Bellerive and Czegs Cafe in Richmond have joined the Clarence City Council dementia program, creating dementia-friendly spaces for all patrons.
It’s hard to believe it’s not standard practice to have a working phone in every aged care room - shared phones make private conversations impossible and increase the risk of spreading COVID-19.
Tacks on the tracks. Mountain bikers beware of tacks being left on certain tracks on the mountain.
Just when you think your cousins are alright. NZ Opposition Leader Judith Collins took aim at Tassie during her recent (unsuccessful) campaign, calling us Australia’s “poor cousin.” She also seems worried about us nabbing tech businesses, “It’s a lovely part of the world but do you necessarily want to go there with your high- tech business? Possibly not,” she said. We beg to differ!