The Hobart

OFF SEASON: Excursion: Venture West And North West

by Stephanie Williams
OFF SEASON: Excursion: Venture West And North West

Pictured above: Charlie “Jackamurra” Bobongie in Gunns Plains Cave, with his prized didgeridoo.

Heater on, music up, a hot coffee in the cup holder. It’s time for an Off Season road trip to experience the north west and west of Tasmania. With a mix of adventurous discovery and snug relaxation, a getaway here will take you through the ancient rainforests of takayna / Tarkine, moody beaches and charming historic towns. Inhale a sharp intake of the super fresh air, let’s get on the road.

Tasmania’s third-largest city, Devonport, is the gateway to the north west and a top starting point for a northern journey in winter. The port where travelers on the Spirit of Tasmania arrive, Devonport has a rich maritime history, which you can find more about at the Bass Strait Maritime Centre (bassstraitmaritimecentre.com.au). From there, take a brisk walk to the red-and-white candy-striped Mersey Bluff Lighthouse with views out to the sometimes calm, sometimes wild Bass Strait. It was built in 1889 and put a stop to a long history of shipwrecks in the area. Taste a warming gin or two at Southern Wild Distillery’s (dasherandfisher.au) cellar door, or make your own bottle of gin to take home in an experience held once a month during winter. For lunch, melt the cold away with Southeast Asian eats at Mr. Good Guy (mrgoodguy.com.au), indulging in their curated winter menu for the Off Season. Spend the night in a self-contained tiny house at Compass Hut (compasshut.com.au) 10 minutes out of town. $2 from every booking is donated to the Tasmanian Arboretum, a botanical tree park nearby.

Just a short drive west of Devonport is Ulverstone, a seaside town at the mouth of the Leven River. Explore the impressive Hive Tasmania (hivetasmania.com.au), a museum and the largest planetarium in the state – perfect for learning about dark sky gazing in winter. Embark on a Leven River Cruise (levenrivercruises.com.au), a watery journey bush-walking, wildlife viewing, and relaxing. Check in for the night at BIG4 Ulverstone Holiday Park (big4ulverstoneholidaypark.com.au). For families, if you stay for two nights, children stay for free, with a kids welcome pack including games and hot chocolate. You also get a bottle of local wine, a voucher for dinner at The Bowls Club, and a discount on the Leven River Cruise.

Sheffield is a small dairy farming town with an artsy side – over 160 murals adorn the walls of the town as a fascinating outdoor gallery. Slow it down but cover ground – view the iconic murals on a horse-drawn carriage with Almost Heaven Clydesdales (almostheavenclydesdales.com.au), snuggled up with a blanket and hot drink. In the distance, the stunning Mount Roland stands proud. If you’re feeling it, embark on an invigorating four to six hour return hike up this 1233 metre tall beauty for incredible views of the region’s plains and plateaus. Sleep at nearby Manna Hill Farm (mannahillfarm.com.au) who will share a hamper of local treats and mulled wine for stays four nights and longer. Alternatively, bunker down at Paradise Road Farm (paradiseroadfarm.com.au) for a two night stay and meet the friendly local goats and cows, and take a guided tour of the paddocks, ending the nights with soup made from farm produce.

Pay a visit to nearby Gunns Plains, a small, unassuming area with a wild underbelly. This is the site of the Gunns Plains Caves (gunnsplainscaves.com.au), a series of caverns and passages home to platypus and giant freshwater lobsters. On select dates this Off Season, enjoy a moving didgeridoo performance as it echoes through the caves. Then pop into Leven Valley Vineyard (levenvalleyvineyard.com.au) with panoramic views of the Leven River. Sample a glass or two as you BBQ your own winter feast.

Travel deeper into the winter wilderness to Cradle Mountain, part of the Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair National Park. This classic Tasmanian peak is the base for numerous mountain activities and often sees snow in winter. Enjoy one of the many hikes, or take a kayak journey in a hand built King Billy Pine kayak on Dove Lake with Cradle Mountain Canyons (cradlemountaincanyons.com.au). To learn more about the local wildlife, visit Devils@Cradle (devilsatcradle.com), a peaceful refuge dedicated to Tasmanian devils and quolls. For a darker foodie experience, try Dessert with the Devils one evening and enjoy sweet local treats as the devils feast on their dinner. Spend the night at Cradle Mountain Hotel (cradlemountainhotel.com.au) – as part of the Off Season there will be wine on arrival, daily breakfast, a National Parks and shuttle bus pass, dining credit at the Altitude Restaurant, and entry to the Wilderness Gallery.

On the edge of takayna / Tarkine, Smithton is a stone’s throw away from a huge tranche of pristine Tasmanian wilderness. It’s a great base for winter exploration of the north west – from here you can travel to legendary surf spots at Marrawah to spot some hardy winter surfers (perhaps join them yourself!), or to the wind farms of Cape Grim. Fan of heights? Book with Tall Timbers Hotel (talltimbershotel.com.au) for their Tarkine Wilderness Helicopter Tour to get a bird’s-eye view of the north west. If you prefer to stick to the ground, join their four-wheel drive tour through the dramatic and breathtaking wilderness – there’s also complimentary woollen beanies and a Hellyer Road Whisky tasting.

Stanley is a charming town on the north-west coast lined with well-preserved cottages. Taking the self-guided Stanley heritage walk is like stepping back in time. Towering over the town is The Nut, an ancient volcanic plug that stands 143m high, which you can walk up or take a chairlift. Taste award-winning local seafood at Hursey Seafoods (hurseyseafoods.com.au) as you gaze out at the choppy ocean. Try their signature popcorn crayfish, made from Southern Rock Lobster, paired with hot sauce, chips and salad for $25. Stay two nights at the Stanley Hotel Bistro & Bar (stanleytasmania.com.au) to get a $70 Stanley Hotel voucher (hello dinner by the roaring fire), or a two night cosy cabin stay at BIG4 Stanley Holiday Park (big4stanley.com.au) for a complimentary dinner for two at Hursey Seafoods.

On the rugged and wild west sits Queenstown, a former mining town full of history and cultural riches. Because of its mining legacy, the landscape sur-rounding Queenstown feels otherworldly, almost like a beautiful moonscape. Board a heritage train with the West Coast Wilderness Railway (wcwr.com.au) to explore the surrounding cool temperate rainforest, celebrating Christmas in July with decorations and festive nibbles. On 3 and 17 August, join a small group and immerse yourself in the magic of night train photography at Carswell Park. Book the Ride & Stay Package with the historic Empire Hotel (empirehotel.net.au), built in 1901, where you can spend two nights accommodation, and enjoy a 20% discount on the West Coast Wilderness Railway.

 

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Cold Water Wake Up Call
It seems everywhere I turn someone is talking about or participating in cold water swimming right now.
A Short Geelong Getaway
Since the Spirit of Tasmania terminal moved from Melbourne to Geelong late last year, a visit to Geelong has been on the radar.
27 Hobart Friends Get Snipping For One Off Wine
The borders were declared shut in Tasmania on the 30th of March, 2020; the first stare to do so amid the COVID- 19 pandemic and hard lockdown of Hobart followed.
Danphe Nepalese and Indian Food + Peppermint Bay Bar and Bistro
Nepalese food is a comfort in our house. Having spent much time trekking and mountain climbing in Nepal as a younger man, Nepalese food is something I always love to go back to.
That’s DR Hannah Gadsby To You
From Smithton to Netflix and the Emmys stage, Tasmanian stand up comic Hannah Gadsby has forged an unlikely path. Following on from the massive success of her shows Nanette and Douglas, Hannah brings her new show Body of Work to Hobart this month.
PODCAST: Incat founder Robert Clifford on why electric boats are the future
Robert Clifford is the founder of Incat, a Hobart company building fast ferries for the world. Always looking to future opportunities, he has identified where Hobart sits in the next wave of transportation. For more of this interview listen to The Hobart Magazine podcast.
Is Tourism Ready For More Forestry Wars?
Tasmanian forests are special. They’re home to centuries-old trees, including the tallest flowering trees on the planet, and support unique native species. Yet not everyone agrees on how these forests should be managed.
Hobart Chefs: When The Obsession Becomes Real
Tasmania’s brand as a foodie haven is cemented. But within the local hospitality industry there are those who love to use local produce...and those who are next-level obsessed with it. We spoke to a bunch of Hobart chefs who are top of the game when it comes to fostering relationships with local farmers and growers.
Did You Know Australia’s First Female Doctor Was Hobartian?
Tasmania, despite its small size and population in comparison to the mainland, has produced more than its proportionally predicted percentage of significant figures and heroes of Australian history. 
Return Travellers Adding Pressure to Hobart Housing
For all of us 2020 was a year like no other, punctuated by rapid change and plenty of new challenges. For vulnerable people in Tasmania, including people facing homelessness, those on low incomes and those facing increasingly higher rents, it was very challenging. We are seeing a growing demand for homes in Tassie from international travellers returning home, people moving for work and others seeking the lifestyle that our Apple Isle has to offer.
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October 2024

Stay up to date with everything happening at the Hobart Magazine.

Even though Tasmania is known for its mild summers, it doesn’t take much to get sunburnt. Tasmania experiences extreme ultraviolet (UV) levels, but contrary to popular belief this isn’t due to the hole in the ozone layer, which is actually south of the continent.While higher UV levels often occur at the same time as higher temperatures, the two are not linked. Instead, UV levels are determined by the angle of the sun in the sky: the higher the sun, the higher the UV. In December and January, the position of the sun over Tasmania gives the state a UV index of 11 or more on most days, which is classified as “extreme” on the UV index. Tasmania’s lack of humidity and generally clear skies contribute to the stinging feeling of the sun. UV can reflect off buildings and water, making it possible to get a higher dose of UV from these reflected rays, even in the shade.

Having just spent a year in Antarctica, Dr Meg is ready to get back to her patients and passion projects in Hobart.

Setting up shop during a pandemic was a risky move, but if the crowd at Dāna Eating House (Dāna) on a Friday night is anything to go by, it’s one that’s paid off. With tables of diners chatting and laughing over drinks, the music and conversation buzzes off the monstera-leaf-green walls. Low-hanging rattan lights and worn wooden floorboards give the newly opened South-East Asian fusion venue in Hobart’s CBD a relaxed vibe.

These women have been suiting up Tasmania’s front-line workers for more than 30 years. 

A simple cave provided the perfect hideout for one of Tasmania’s most brutal bushrangers – and you can easily walk to it from Fern Tree. Sarah Aitken went in search of the story of Rocky Whelan.

Thank you to Luke Brokensha for mobilising his friends and local residents recently to host two rubbish clean ups along the Hobart Rivulet after heavy rains.
The warm weather returns...hello summer.
Need a laugh? Check out @theinspiredunemployed feed on Instagram.
Moto Vecchia Cafe in Bellerive and Czegs Cafe in Richmond have joined the Clarence City Council dementia program, creating dementia-friendly spaces for all patrons.
It’s hard to believe it’s not standard practice to have a working phone in every aged care room - shared phones make private conversations impossible and increase the risk of spreading COVID-19.
Tacks on the tracks. Mountain bikers beware of tacks being left on certain tracks on the mountain.
Just when you think your cousins are alright. NZ Opposition Leader Judith Collins took aim at Tassie during her recent (unsuccessful) campaign, calling us Australia’s “poor cousin.” She also seems worried about us nabbing tech businesses, “It’s a lovely part of the world but do you necessarily want to go there with your high- tech business? Possibly not,” she said. We beg to differ!