The Hobart

Getting Wild On The Gordon River

by Stephanie Williams
Getting Wild On The Gordon River

The evening before we’re due to take a day trip on the new Spirit of the Wild vessel in Strahan, we take a slow wander along the waterfront to check it out as the sun sets. An imposing charcoal grey and reflective glass structure, the boat was purpose-built to take passengers across vast Macquarie Harbour and down the glassy Gordon River. It’s an impressive sight and we’re now excited to board in the morning.

We arrive bright and early at 8am and quite a crowd have beaten us there. Our tickets are for the Premium Upper Deck – a luxurious space with leather recliner seats, private viewing platforms and snacks, meals and Tasmanian wines, beer and soft drinks to the heart’s content all day. We’re shown to our seats and offered coffee and pastries while we disembark.

Just to get technical for a minute, the Spirit of the Wild is a 33.8m catamaran that was constructed in Hobart by Richardson Devine Marine. It features twin diesel engines but also runs twin electric engines which allows for almost silent cruising when needed. As we race across Macquarie Harbour with all engines on full blast, it’s a comfortable ride, even on the choppy, rainy day that we’re experiencing.

We near Hell’s Gates, the narrow passage that all boats in and out of the Harbour must pass. It’s easy to imagine the terror that would’ve been felt by convicts who had been sentenced to life on Sarah Island, a small island penal colony in the middle of the harbour, as the boat passes through the chop. Patches of fog dance across the dense forest that lines the shore and an icy cold wind whips at us as we brace ourselves on the outdoor deck. Back inside, the stories of the prisoners, pioneers and protectors of this area are brought to life on the screens in the cabin, which further sets the scene.

We set a path for the Gordon River. Once we hit the lower reaches, the almost black water starts to become glassy and reflective. It’s at this point I realise how incredible the electric engines actually are. Practically silent, all you can hear are birds in the distance. We glide through UNESCO Tasmanian World Heritage Wilderness Area and moor at Heritage Landing to follow a short boardwalk track to see ancient Huon pines, some being several thousand years old.

Back on board, lunch has been prepared – think Tasmanian salmon and steamed trout, delicious salads and frittata, followed by dessert. Lots of couples are having celebratory bubbles, with at least one anniversary and one honeymoon being celebrated among the group. I nip downstairs to check out their buffet, and it looks great too with lots of cold cuts, smoked salmon and salads.

Our last stop of the day is a guided walk on Sarah Island. From 1821 the tiny windswept island was used as a penal settlement where convicts laboured under the harshest conditions in the rainforest, felling Huon pines for boat building.

We glide back into Strahan six hours after we left. Even though the day went quickly, I got a real sense of the vastness of Macquarie Harbour, the extraordinary wilderness of the Gordon River and an appreciation of the harshness of the penal years in the area. All while sipping fine Tassie wines and eating delicious food from the comfort of my seat or viewing area. ■

More information and bookings at gordonrivercruises.com.au

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Cold Water Wake Up Call
It seems everywhere I turn someone is talking about or participating in cold water swimming right now.
A Short Geelong Getaway
Since the Spirit of Tasmania terminal moved from Melbourne to Geelong late last year, a visit to Geelong has been on the radar.
27 Hobart Friends Get Snipping For One Off Wine
The borders were declared shut in Tasmania on the 30th of March, 2020; the first stare to do so amid the COVID- 19 pandemic and hard lockdown of Hobart followed.
Danphe Nepalese and Indian Food + Peppermint Bay Bar and Bistro
Nepalese food is a comfort in our house. Having spent much time trekking and mountain climbing in Nepal as a younger man, Nepalese food is something I always love to go back to.
That’s DR Hannah Gadsby To You
From Smithton to Netflix and the Emmys stage, Tasmanian stand up comic Hannah Gadsby has forged an unlikely path. Following on from the massive success of her shows Nanette and Douglas, Hannah brings her new show Body of Work to Hobart this month.
PODCAST: Incat founder Robert Clifford on why electric boats are the future
Robert Clifford is the founder of Incat, a Hobart company building fast ferries for the world. Always looking to future opportunities, he has identified where Hobart sits in the next wave of transportation. For more of this interview listen to The Hobart Magazine podcast.
Is Tourism Ready For More Forestry Wars?
Tasmanian forests are special. They’re home to centuries-old trees, including the tallest flowering trees on the planet, and support unique native species. Yet not everyone agrees on how these forests should be managed.
Hobart Chefs: When The Obsession Becomes Real
Tasmania’s brand as a foodie haven is cemented. But within the local hospitality industry there are those who love to use local produce...and those who are next-level obsessed with it. We spoke to a bunch of Hobart chefs who are top of the game when it comes to fostering relationships with local farmers and growers.
Did You Know Australia’s First Female Doctor Was Hobartian?
Tasmania, despite its small size and population in comparison to the mainland, has produced more than its proportionally predicted percentage of significant figures and heroes of Australian history. 
Return Travellers Adding Pressure to Hobart Housing
For all of us 2020 was a year like no other, punctuated by rapid change and plenty of new challenges. For vulnerable people in Tasmania, including people facing homelessness, those on low incomes and those facing increasingly higher rents, it was very challenging. We are seeing a growing demand for homes in Tassie from international travellers returning home, people moving for work and others seeking the lifestyle that our Apple Isle has to offer.
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November 2024

Stay up to date with everything happening at the Hobart Magazine.

Even though Tasmania is known for its mild summers, it doesn’t take much to get sunburnt. Tasmania experiences extreme ultraviolet (UV) levels, but contrary to popular belief this isn’t due to the hole in the ozone layer, which is actually south of the continent.While higher UV levels often occur at the same time as higher temperatures, the two are not linked. Instead, UV levels are determined by the angle of the sun in the sky: the higher the sun, the higher the UV. In December and January, the position of the sun over Tasmania gives the state a UV index of 11 or more on most days, which is classified as “extreme” on the UV index. Tasmania’s lack of humidity and generally clear skies contribute to the stinging feeling of the sun. UV can reflect off buildings and water, making it possible to get a higher dose of UV from these reflected rays, even in the shade.

Having just spent a year in Antarctica, Dr Meg is ready to get back to her patients and passion projects in Hobart.

Setting up shop during a pandemic was a risky move, but if the crowd at Dāna Eating House (Dāna) on a Friday night is anything to go by, it’s one that’s paid off. With tables of diners chatting and laughing over drinks, the music and conversation buzzes off the monstera-leaf-green walls. Low-hanging rattan lights and worn wooden floorboards give the newly opened South-East Asian fusion venue in Hobart’s CBD a relaxed vibe.

Sarah Clark is using her skills in gardening to help the homeless in Hobart.

A simple cave provided the perfect hideout for one of Tasmania’s most brutal bushrangers – and you can easily walk to it from Fern Tree. Sarah Aitken went in search of the story of Rocky Whelan.

Thank you to Luke Brokensha for mobilising his friends and local residents recently to host two rubbish clean ups along the Hobart Rivulet after heavy rains.
The warm weather returns...hello summer.
Need a laugh? Check out @theinspiredunemployed feed on Instagram.
Moto Vecchia Cafe in Bellerive and Czegs Cafe in Richmond have joined the Clarence City Council dementia program, creating dementia-friendly spaces for all patrons.
It’s hard to believe it’s not standard practice to have a working phone in every aged care room - shared phones make private conversations impossible and increase the risk of spreading COVID-19.
Tacks on the tracks. Mountain bikers beware of tacks being left on certain tracks on the mountain.
Just when you think your cousins are alright. NZ Opposition Leader Judith Collins took aim at Tassie during her recent (unsuccessful) campaign, calling us Australia’s “poor cousin.” She also seems worried about us nabbing tech businesses, “It’s a lovely part of the world but do you necessarily want to go there with your high- tech business? Possibly not,” she said. We beg to differ!