The Hobart

Tunnel Hill Mushrooms

by Ollie Benson, Sprout Tasmania
Tunnel Hill Mushrooms

It’s mushroom season! But at a time when Instagram feeds are full of foraged slippery jacks and saffron milk caps, there’s a grower on the outskirts of Hobart who’s found a unique environment for producing mushrooms all year round.

Dean Smith of Tunnel Hill Mushrooms has been growing mushrooms in an old railway tunnel at Mount Rumney since 2008. The tunnel, built in 1891, was part of the short-lived Bellerive-Sorell line, with trains passing through twice a day until it’s closure in 1926. Since then, it’s had quite the history, having been used as a storage facility during World War II, as a themed restaurant, and even for cosmic ray research.

Dean purchased 90 metres of the tunnel in 2000. In truth, he and his family bought the property not knowing what to do with the tunnel, but a chance visit from the original manager of Huon Valley Mushrooms, Dr Warwick Gill, kick-started what would become his passion. With Gill as his mentor and learning that the tunnel’s environment provided good conditions to grow in, Dean began experimenting with substrates and varieties, finding shiitake and cold loving winter strains of oyster mushrooms grew best.  What started as a hobby has grown into a full-time enterprise. Dean has built his own lab, and here he can grow out cultures on agar filled petri dishes, transferring the cultures known as mycelium onto sterilized grain and then allowing it to spawn. From there a substrate is inoculated with the grain spawn, and once the mycelium has developed, its environment is changed by dropping the temperature and increasing humidity, and fruiting then begins. And this is where the tunnel comes in – with temperatures consistently around 13 degrees the natural environment inside has meant the tunnel has a renewed purpose and a new chapter in its rich history.

Dean outside the tunnel

Although the tunnel has provided useful conditions for the fruiting, it’s not perfect. Temperatures inside do fluctuate, which mean consistent yields have been hard to maintain, so with demand for his produce increasing and after years of resisting, Dean has now purchased additional, more specialised growing space in the form of a fitted-out shipping container.

With much of the mushroom production moving to the container, Dean’s plans for the tunnel are now switching towards value-adding and agritourism. He has developed a shiitake vodka, and a range of tinctures using medicinal mushrooms such as reishi, lion’s mane, and turkey tail, which can all help with gut health and immune systems.

The history of the tunnel combined with the science of mushroom growing has already piqued the interest of schools, tour groups, and even politicians, and Dean would love to be able to host long-table lunches. He has started offering tours of the tunnel, but to increase his tourism offerings some infrastructure upgrades are necessary, and Dean is keen to source additional investment. As Dean says, “this place is unique and a showcase of Tasmania’s railway history. It’s a place we like to share with others. It’s not my tunnel, it’s not our tunnel, it’s everyone’s tunnel!”

THE FARMER’S FAVOURITE  Dean loves lion’s mane mushrooms both for the beneficial effects on the brain and gut, but also for their sweetness and texture. They make an excellent substitute for lobster and work brilliantly in soups, broths, and as a mushroom ‘crab cake’.


DEAN’S FRIED KING OYSTER MUSHROOMS

Ingredients:  A handful of king oyster mushrooms

A knob of salted butter

Half a lemon

Salt

Method:  Slice the mushrooms into thin medallions.  Place in a hot pan and dry fry to let the water cook out of them.  When the natural sugars start to come out and caramelization begins hit them with the butter, salt, and lemon juice. Serve. It’s as simple as that!

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13 Ways to Get Your Summer Thrills in Tasmania
Make the most of the longer days this summer with adrenaline-fueled adventures and nature-rich experiences, right on your doorstep.
Arve Falls Lookout
Feeling stifled from long days of mask-wearing? Luckily, in Tasmania we are never far from somewhere beautiful to escape to on our days off – and breathe in lungfuls of restorative fresh air, mask-free.
27 Hobart Friends Get Snipping For One Off Wine
The borders were declared shut in Tasmania on the 30th of March, 2020; the first stare to do so amid the COVID- 19 pandemic and hard lockdown of Hobart followed.
Danphe Nepalese and Indian Food + Peppermint Bay Bar and Bistro
Nepalese food is a comfort in our house. Having spent much time trekking and mountain climbing in Nepal as a younger man, Nepalese food is something I always love to go back to.
That’s DR Hannah Gadsby To You
From Smithton to Netflix and the Emmys stage, Tasmanian stand up comic Hannah Gadsby has forged an unlikely path. Following on from the massive success of her shows Nanette and Douglas, Hannah brings her new show Body of Work to Hobart this month.
PODCAST: Incat founder Robert Clifford on why electric boats are the future
Robert Clifford is the founder of Incat, a Hobart company building fast ferries for the world. Always looking to future opportunities, he has identified where Hobart sits in the next wave of transportation. For more of this interview listen to The Hobart Magazine podcast.
Is Tourism Ready For More Forestry Wars?
Tasmanian forests are special. They’re home to centuries-old trees, including the tallest flowering trees on the planet, and support unique native species. Yet not everyone agrees on how these forests should be managed.
Hobart Chefs: When The Obsession Becomes Real
Tasmania’s brand as a foodie haven is cemented. But within the local hospitality industry there are those who love to use local produce...and those who are next-level obsessed with it. We spoke to a bunch of Hobart chefs who are top of the game when it comes to fostering relationships with local farmers and growers.
Did You Know Australia’s First Female Doctor Was Hobartian?
Tasmania, despite its small size and population in comparison to the mainland, has produced more than its proportionally predicted percentage of significant figures and heroes of Australian history. 
Return Travellers Adding Pressure to Hobart Housing
For all of us 2020 was a year like no other, punctuated by rapid change and plenty of new challenges. For vulnerable people in Tasmania, including people facing homelessness, those on low incomes and those facing increasingly higher rents, it was very challenging. We are seeing a growing demand for homes in Tassie from international travellers returning home, people moving for work and others seeking the lifestyle that our Apple Isle has to offer.
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March 2025

Stay up to date with everything happening at the Hobart Magazine.

Thank you to Luke Brokensha for mobilising his friends and local residents recently to host two rubbish clean ups along the Hobart Rivulet after heavy rains.
The warm weather returns...hello summer.
Need a laugh? Check out @theinspiredunemployed feed on Instagram.
Moto Vecchia Cafe in Bellerive and Czegs Cafe in Richmond have joined the Clarence City Council dementia program, creating dementia-friendly spaces for all patrons.
It’s hard to believe it’s not standard practice to have a working phone in every aged care room - shared phones make private conversations impossible and increase the risk of spreading COVID-19.
Tacks on the tracks. Mountain bikers beware of tacks being left on certain tracks on the mountain.
Just when you think your cousins are alright. NZ Opposition Leader Judith Collins took aim at Tassie during her recent (unsuccessful) campaign, calling us Australia’s “poor cousin.” She also seems worried about us nabbing tech businesses, “It’s a lovely part of the world but do you necessarily want to go there with your high- tech business? Possibly not,” she said. We beg to differ!