The Hobart

The First Tasmanian to Set Foot on Antarctica

by Hobart Magazine
The First Tasmanian to Set Foot on Antarctica

The end of the 19th century heralded the beginning of the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration. This was an era marked by intensive scientific and geographi­cal exploration in the Antarctic region. Hobart became one of the few cities that served as a hub for Antarctic explorers, due to its geographical proximity to the frozen continent, and its deepwater estuary which enabled explorers to use its harbour.

Picture the Hobart waterfront all those years ago. Towering ships moored in the harbour, and adventurers filling the streets, eagerly awaiting the journey of a lifetime. Today, Hobart’s profound ties with Antarctica are ingrained in the city’s history and culture. From hosting the annual Australian Antarctic Festival, (this year from 22-25 August), to fostering scientific research through institutions like IMAS and CSIRO, Hobart never ceased being a pivotal base for Antarctic discovery.

Louis Bernacchi and Joe. Pic: Allport Library and Museum of Fine Arts, State Library of Tasmania

Throughout the city, there are memori­als that remind us of this storied legacy. Among these stands the bronze statue titled Self portrait, Louis and Joe at Constitution Dock. Perhaps familiar to many who have passed by, or even posed for photos with it, the statue commemorates Tasmanian Antarctic explorer Louis Bernacchi and his loyal Siberian husky, Joe. Bernacchi was the first Tasmanian to set foot on continental Antarctica and the first Australian to work and winter in Antarctica.

Louis Bernacchi, born in 1876 to Italian parents in Belgium, migrated with his family to Tasmania at the age of seven. They settled on Maria Island, where his father, Angelo Bernacchi, established a vineyard. It was here, amidst the island’s serene remoteness, that Louis’s curiosity and passion for nature grew.

Bernacchi was educated at Hutchins in Hobart, then at 19 he went to the Melbourne Observatory to learn about meteorology and terrestrial magnetism (think Earth’s magnetic field). It was during this time that his fascination with Antarctic exploration was sparked, given its relevance to his studies.

Self portrait, Louis and Joe

In 1898, at the age of 22, Louis finally got to venture to the continent. His training made him suitable for the role of physicist, so he joined the privately financed Southern Cross Expedition, led by Carsten Borchgrevink, comprising 31 men and 90 sled dogs (the first dogs to be taken to Antarctica). It was the first British venture of the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration, before the more widely known Shackleton and Mawson expeditions. This truly was a voyage into the icy unknown.

This expedition was marked by many historic ‘firsts’. Only 10 men, Bernacchi among them, stayed in the continent. They were the first to brave an entire winter on the Antarctic mainland, they pioneered the use of dogs and sledges for Antarctic travel, they erected the first buildings in Antarctica (which still stand today at Cape Adare), and they achieved a record for farthest south travelled (later surpassed on Bernacchi’s second voyage). Tragically, the expedition also witnessed Antarctica’s first burial, that of Nicolai Hanson, who succumbed to illness. His death caused great sadness amongst the men.

Bernacchi played a crucial role over­seeing meteorological observations and photography. These efforts were pivotal in understanding geomagnetic data in Antarctica. His detailed account of the expedition, titled To the South Polar Regions was published in 1900 and featured his photos, which are the first comprehensive visual record of Antarctica on land. Later, his granddaughter Janet Crawford edited a version of his diaries from the expedition under the title That First Antarctic Winter.

These two texts shine a light on what everyday life was like. They reveal poor leadership, conflict amongst the crew, and a generally uncomfortable atmos­phere, though Bernacchi was known to be a peacemaker and to have kept a cool head. Because the expedition was privately financed and not an official British venture, it garnered little public attention upon its conclusion. Nonetheless their legacy lives on in Bernacchi’s words and photos, the crew’s findings, and the monuments they left behind.

In the first year of the expedition, a puppy named Joe was born and given to Bernacchi. They developed a close bond and kept each other company. After Joe had been trained, Bernacchi put him to work, and upon returning home, he brought Joe with him. He would then bring the husky on his second Antarctic expedition.

This was the Discovery Expedition, led by Robert Falcon Scott, spanning from 1901 to 1904. Unlike Bernacchi’s first Antarctic venture, this garnered wide­spread attention and acclaim as it was the first official British voyage of this era. It boasted a significantly larger budget, more resources, and a larger crew (includ­ing Ernest Shackleton, who would go on to become one of the most important figures in Antarctic history). It was a more epic journey by all accounts, and worth further reading.

SS Southern Cross on the Derwent River. Pic: W L Crowther Library, State Library of Tasmania.

Bernacchi was the only person onboard who had been to Antarctica before, making him an essential part of the team. He would have been sharing his tales and knowledge as the ship made its way to colder waters. Back in the Antarctic, he continued his research among several other scientists.

The crew discovered the continent’s only snow-free valley and its longest river, significant penguin colonies, and the Polar Plateau where the South Pole is situated. They unearthed fossils, identified new marine species, amassed thousands of geological and biological specimens, and calculated the positions and heights of more than 200 mountains.

The crew entertained themselves with the­atricals and lectures. Shackleton started a newspaper called the South Polar Times, which focused on the human aspect of Polar exploration. Bernacchi took over as editor in 1903.

Joe remained Bernacchi’s companion throughout the expedition. On the trip back home, however, as dog food ran short and his strength failed him, Joe had to be humanely put down. This good boy was a pioneer in many ways, being one of the dogs to pull the sled that broke the furthest south record on this second voyage.

Post-expedition, Bernacchi received several accolades. He maintained friendships with the crew, including the captain, Scott, who stood as best man at Bernacchi’s wedding in 1906. Scott invited Bernacchi to join him on his Terra Nova expedition, a return to the Antarctic, but Bernacchi declined. This decision may have saved Bernacchi’s life, as Scott and his party of five tragically died on their return trip from the South Pole. Bernacchi would remain active in scientific organisations and write several books before passing away in 1942 at the age of 65.

Now, Bernacchi is immortalised alongside Joe on the Hobart waterfront. A man and his dog, planting a flag down in history. There is a story behind every statue and this is theirs. Next time you pass by them, why not give Joe a little pat. He deserves it.

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Feeling stifled from long days of mask-wearing? Luckily, in Tasmania we are never far from somewhere beautiful to escape to on our days off – and breathe in lungfuls of restorative fresh air, mask-free.
27 Hobart Friends Get Snipping For One Off Wine
The borders were declared shut in Tasmania on the 30th of March, 2020; the first stare to do so amid the COVID- 19 pandemic and hard lockdown of Hobart followed.
Danphe Nepalese and Indian Food + Peppermint Bay Bar and Bistro
Nepalese food is a comfort in our house. Having spent much time trekking and mountain climbing in Nepal as a younger man, Nepalese food is something I always love to go back to.
That’s DR Hannah Gadsby To You
From Smithton to Netflix and the Emmys stage, Tasmanian stand up comic Hannah Gadsby has forged an unlikely path. Following on from the massive success of her shows Nanette and Douglas, Hannah brings her new show Body of Work to Hobart this month.
PODCAST: Incat founder Robert Clifford on why electric boats are the future
Robert Clifford is the founder of Incat, a Hobart company building fast ferries for the world. Always looking to future opportunities, he has identified where Hobart sits in the next wave of transportation. For more of this interview listen to The Hobart Magazine podcast.
Is Tourism Ready For More Forestry Wars?
Tasmanian forests are special. They’re home to centuries-old trees, including the tallest flowering trees on the planet, and support unique native species. Yet not everyone agrees on how these forests should be managed.
Hobart Chefs: When The Obsession Becomes Real
Tasmania’s brand as a foodie haven is cemented. But within the local hospitality industry there are those who love to use local produce...and those who are next-level obsessed with it. We spoke to a bunch of Hobart chefs who are top of the game when it comes to fostering relationships with local farmers and growers.
Did You Know Australia’s First Female Doctor Was Hobartian?
Tasmania, despite its small size and population in comparison to the mainland, has produced more than its proportionally predicted percentage of significant figures and heroes of Australian history. 
Return Travellers Adding Pressure to Hobart Housing
For all of us 2020 was a year like no other, punctuated by rapid change and plenty of new challenges. For vulnerable people in Tasmania, including people facing homelessness, those on low incomes and those facing increasingly higher rents, it was very challenging. We are seeing a growing demand for homes in Tassie from international travellers returning home, people moving for work and others seeking the lifestyle that our Apple Isle has to offer.
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March 2025

Stay up to date with everything happening at the Hobart Magazine.

Thank you to Luke Brokensha for mobilising his friends and local residents recently to host two rubbish clean ups along the Hobart Rivulet after heavy rains.
The warm weather returns...hello summer.
Need a laugh? Check out @theinspiredunemployed feed on Instagram.
Moto Vecchia Cafe in Bellerive and Czegs Cafe in Richmond have joined the Clarence City Council dementia program, creating dementia-friendly spaces for all patrons.
It’s hard to believe it’s not standard practice to have a working phone in every aged care room - shared phones make private conversations impossible and increase the risk of spreading COVID-19.
Tacks on the tracks. Mountain bikers beware of tacks being left on certain tracks on the mountain.
Just when you think your cousins are alright. NZ Opposition Leader Judith Collins took aim at Tassie during her recent (unsuccessful) campaign, calling us Australia’s “poor cousin.” She also seems worried about us nabbing tech businesses, “It’s a lovely part of the world but do you necessarily want to go there with your high- tech business? Possibly not,” she said. We beg to differ!