Nestled among the grounds of Government House in Hobart, lies a thriving food production garden that serves as a herbal tapestry of diversity and culinary inspiration.

Elicia Casey-Winter is the grower at Government House Tasmania, growing food for the School Food Matters Program, in conjunction with Eat Well Tasmania and Loaves and Fishes. Elicia currently looks after a 2500sqm area including a market garden, citrus and nut orchards, berry enclosure, heirloom French garden and a community garden space.

Within the market garden she grows a colourful array of diverse and fragrant herbs, destined for the Government House kitchen, to add depth and vibrancy to every dish served. From classics like sage, dill and tarragon to more exotic varieties such as lemongrass, curry leaves and Vietnamese mint, the garden is a treasure trove of aromatic delights waiting to be plucked and savoured.

At this time of year, the so-called hungry gap that straddles the last of the winter crops and the promised abundance of warmer weather, soft herbs like parsley are much more than a garnish. As Paulette Whitney writes in her recently published book, Broccoli & other love stories, “pile a whole bunch, or even two, in your tabouleh. Pile gremolata on your braises by the spoonful”. Paulette suggests that parsley should be viewed as more than a herb and should be treated as a salad green. It seems as this view is approved of at Government House, as the kitchen can’t get enough.

Elicia grew up in southern Tasmania, left home to study in London and Melbourne during her early 20s before returning home. She ran a small business for five years before realising her dream of becoming a food grower. In 2021 she studied a Diploma of Sustainable Living at UTAS, specialising in plant science and food production systems, before begin­ning work at Government House in early 2022.

She uses an ecological approach to growing food, valuing soil health and biodiversity. Permaculture techniques and principles are used throughout the food gardens and heavily influence the overall management of the space. Herbs are therefore an important part of the garden, providing colour and heady scents, attracting pollinators, and adding variety to the kitchen. Grown in tall raised concrete beds that help trap heat, and situated close to the kitchen, at this time of year Elicia is harvesting up to 20 different herbs. Oregano, chives, sweet marjoram and chervil are all now in season, as are bronze fennel, salad burnet, lemon balm, and those mentioned above. Native kunzea is available year-round, as are woody herbs such as rosemary.

Part of Elicia’s role at Government House involves hosting tours and school groups. To help promote healthy eating and demonstrate the enjoyment in growing food she tends to a vegetable clock, a series of beds in the shape of a time­piece. Of course, with the pun very much intended, the clock is surrounded by a border of thyme.

So, folks, as we continue to navigate the hungry gap, and grow increasingly impa­tient for summer crops, it really is ‘thyme’ to go heavy with herbs.

ELICIA’S CURRIED PUMPKIN SOUP

1 onion

2 cloves of garlic

Knob of butter

Large handful of herbs like chives, thyme, rosemary, parsley & oregano

1-2 tsp curry powder

1.2kg peeled and cubed pumpkin like Kent or Butternut

3 cups vegetable stock

1 cup water

Caramelise the onion and garlic in butter. Add herbs, salt, pepper and curry powder, cook for a few minutes. Add pumpkin, stock and water. Bring to the boil and then simmer for around 20 minutes or until the pumpkin is soft. Blend. Serve with sour cream and more chives.