The Hobart

A Road Most Travelled: Stories of the Midland Highway

by Peta Hen
A Road Most Travelled: Stories of the Midland Highway

When travelling from Hobart to Launceston and back again, one stretch of long, hilly, winding road generally comes to mind. Synonymous with roadworks and slow-moving caravans, the Midland Highway, or Midlands Highway, as it’s often referred to, never struck me as anything more than the road to the north of Tasmania – one with a compulsory coffee stop in Campbell Town, as is tradition.

That got me thinking. The Midland Highway has some incredible history dotted along its length with towns like Oatlands and Ross. Epping Forest is an interesting, not to mention spooky, place, and then there’s the sculpture trail between Tunbridge and Kempton. With my interest piqued, I decided to find out more about Tasmania’s road most travelled.

The Midland Highway began its life when surveyor Charles Grimes first pioneered the route from Hobart to Launceston in 1807. In 1811, Governor Macquarie followed the same route which took him over five days to complete. Talk about a trek! Known locally as ‘Hobart Road’ or ‘Main Road’, the predecessor to the Midland Highway was nothing more than a winding dirt track worn down by horses and carts. There were many detours travellers could take, one being via the Coal River instead of the Jordan Valley to avoid the trudge up Spring Hill. In 1821, construction on an official road between Hobart Town and St Peter’s Pass near Oatlands began under the charge of Major Thomas Bell of the 48th Regiment. While this original portion of the road, known as ‘Bell’s Line of Road’ (not to be confused with the road by the same name in the Blue Mountains!) is no longer part of the present-day Midland Highway route, parts of it can still be seen around the hilly terrain of the Southern Midlands. By 1850, fourteen years after the Bridgewater causeway was opened and the road finally sealed and macadamised with crushed stone, the road was revered by travellers as the preferred route for commuting through the middle of the state. By the 1930s, the 25-foot wide, two-lane highway was sealed, officially becoming known as ‘The Midland Highway’.

While work has continued on the Midland Highway until the present day, a history spanning over 200 years is impressive for a single stretch of road. During the 2000s, The Midland Highway was dubbed ‘The Heritage Highway’ with much of this heritage depicted in the shadowy entities that rise up out of the hills along the southern stretch of the highway. Two local artists, Folko Kooper and Maureen Craig initiated the Shadows of the Past project where sixteen silhouetted sculptures tell colonial stories of the region. When I saw these for the first time, I thought they were quite eerie. This is fitting as there are a number of spooky places along the Midland Highway.

“Main Road,” Campbell Town. Pic: Libraries Tasmania Archives

Oatlands and Ross always come to mind. Stop in either town late at night during winter after the fog has set in and I bet your spine will be tingling. Rumours say ghostly apparitions have been spotted in many of the old Georgian windows in both towns. For me though, Epping Forest has the most spook factor. I was told once to never stop in Epping Forest. There is an old urban legend of a colonial headless horseman who was seen riding through the trees. The area was renowned for being a rife bushranger hideout which witnessed a lot of foul play in its day. For me, a much spookier urban legend from that part of the Midlands is ‘The Disappearing House’. Located just south of Epping Forrest at a junction in Conara called The Corners, Conara Inn became infamously known as ‘The Disappearing House’ due to it appearing and reappear­ing as travellers approached it along the original stretch of Midland Highway. This, of course, turned out to be an optical illusion caused by the hills of the landscape. Still, the idea is very creepy and the Conara Inn itself was said to be haunted.

Vanishing houses aside, the Midland Highway is a lot more than a two-hour stretch of bitumen between Hobart and Launceston. It’s a trail back in time that tells stories and legends about all who have travelled along its length. At least, that’s what I’ll be thinking the next time I bite into a pie at Banjo’s in Campbell Town.

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13 Ways to Get Your Summer Thrills in Tasmania
Make the most of the longer days this summer with adrenaline-fueled adventures and nature-rich experiences, right on your doorstep.
Arve Falls Lookout
Feeling stifled from long days of mask-wearing? Luckily, in Tasmania we are never far from somewhere beautiful to escape to on our days off – and breathe in lungfuls of restorative fresh air, mask-free.
27 Hobart Friends Get Snipping For One Off Wine
The borders were declared shut in Tasmania on the 30th of March, 2020; the first stare to do so amid the COVID- 19 pandemic and hard lockdown of Hobart followed.
Danphe Nepalese and Indian Food + Peppermint Bay Bar and Bistro
Nepalese food is a comfort in our house. Having spent much time trekking and mountain climbing in Nepal as a younger man, Nepalese food is something I always love to go back to.
That’s DR Hannah Gadsby To You
From Smithton to Netflix and the Emmys stage, Tasmanian stand up comic Hannah Gadsby has forged an unlikely path. Following on from the massive success of her shows Nanette and Douglas, Hannah brings her new show Body of Work to Hobart this month.
PODCAST: Incat founder Robert Clifford on why electric boats are the future
Robert Clifford is the founder of Incat, a Hobart company building fast ferries for the world. Always looking to future opportunities, he has identified where Hobart sits in the next wave of transportation. For more of this interview listen to The Hobart Magazine podcast.
Is Tourism Ready For More Forestry Wars?
Tasmanian forests are special. They’re home to centuries-old trees, including the tallest flowering trees on the planet, and support unique native species. Yet not everyone agrees on how these forests should be managed.
Hobart Chefs: When The Obsession Becomes Real
Tasmania’s brand as a foodie haven is cemented. But within the local hospitality industry there are those who love to use local produce...and those who are next-level obsessed with it. We spoke to a bunch of Hobart chefs who are top of the game when it comes to fostering relationships with local farmers and growers.
Did You Know Australia’s First Female Doctor Was Hobartian?
Tasmania, despite its small size and population in comparison to the mainland, has produced more than its proportionally predicted percentage of significant figures and heroes of Australian history. 
Return Travellers Adding Pressure to Hobart Housing
For all of us 2020 was a year like no other, punctuated by rapid change and plenty of new challenges. For vulnerable people in Tasmania, including people facing homelessness, those on low incomes and those facing increasingly higher rents, it was very challenging. We are seeing a growing demand for homes in Tassie from international travellers returning home, people moving for work and others seeking the lifestyle that our Apple Isle has to offer.
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March 2025

Stay up to date with everything happening at the Hobart Magazine.

Thank you to Luke Brokensha for mobilising his friends and local residents recently to host two rubbish clean ups along the Hobart Rivulet after heavy rains.
The warm weather returns...hello summer.
Need a laugh? Check out @theinspiredunemployed feed on Instagram.
Moto Vecchia Cafe in Bellerive and Czegs Cafe in Richmond have joined the Clarence City Council dementia program, creating dementia-friendly spaces for all patrons.
It’s hard to believe it’s not standard practice to have a working phone in every aged care room - shared phones make private conversations impossible and increase the risk of spreading COVID-19.
Tacks on the tracks. Mountain bikers beware of tacks being left on certain tracks on the mountain.
Just when you think your cousins are alright. NZ Opposition Leader Judith Collins took aim at Tassie during her recent (unsuccessful) campaign, calling us Australia’s “poor cousin.” She also seems worried about us nabbing tech businesses, “It’s a lovely part of the world but do you necessarily want to go there with your high- tech business? Possibly not,” she said. We beg to differ!